Day Four
Thankfully we've packed for the extra day. Now we have to get
out for two reasons; our lack of supplies and palatable
goodies, and the water level. If they hold through today,
they certainly will not tomorrow.
If
we can set a pace like
our first day it won't be a problem. The afternoon of yesterday showed us
that the river can slow our pace to a grind, so we get up early and
hit the water.
This is the rapid that forced us back out of the gorge. It looks a lot
better in picture than in person, both sieves are out of view,
but note how thin flows are in the center.
Photo: Kevin Smith
The gradient looks good as we round the corner
out of
camp, but the
first drop is highly suspect. We scout high on the left and deem
it in our best interest to make a quick portage, the crack is just too
tight to be sure of fitting through. At least we can make use of the
seventy meter rope Ben has been hauling down the river.
Matt
Thomas seal launches in while
Kevin Smith rappels.
After the portage we run a boulder garden
or two
before coming
to something none of us are expecting; bedrock. Every rapid we have run
so far has been composed
of boulders or at best, a minuscule amount of bedrock. I don't’
get out of my boat, the horizon line looks clean. Ben gives hand
signals and is ready to film, so I peel out
and paddle hard right down a nice slide to slide combo that is clean as
a whistle.
Matt Thomas, Sunrise Slide.
Kevin
Smith relieved to be running a
clean rapid.
At
this point in the trip we are all exhausted, yet Kevin Smith proves
just how motivated he is by hiking up and running the slide again.
Looking dowstream from the slide, we are almost to the confluence. Looks can be deceiving. Exiting the
slide, the
character of
the river makes a severe turn for the worse, and becomes filled with
boulders, not of a friendly nature. Our portage ratio ticks
up dramatically, yet we are still picking off a few good ones.
Kevin
Smith runs a good one in bad
lighting.
Once
again another downstream view,
the confluence is above the tight
gorge.
Photo: Kevin Smith
The
last good rapid we run for a
while. Matt Thomas.
Photo: Kevin Smith
It turns into complete hell. This is the
steepest
section of the
river, and we have been expecting the gradient, but the whole thing is
a big sieve pile, and the portages are terrible. The portage
we are making was like a gigantic Crucible entrance portage, and if
you have done those you know. Giant boulders, right up
against the gorge wall, lots of boat raising and lowering. It makes for
a tediously slow pace.
Yeah, good times coming up.
Photo: Kevin Smith
If there was no suffering, would it be the San Joaquin?
Photo: Kevin Smith
No clean lines.
Photo: Kevin Smith
As the gradient tapers off the river give us
one last
fun rapid that is relatively clean, and we are floating through some pleasant class
II riffles; suddenly Balloon Dome comes into view. Truly a sight to
behold from any angle, the granite monolith which divides the Middle and
South Fork San Joaquin.
Kevin
Smith and Balloon Dome.
It seems like it should be easy run out to the
Middle Fork now, but when Ben scouts the rapid below the pool, yet
another gigantic sieve, locked deep in a gorge. Amazingly we have to
attain back up to the beach in the above photo, and portage
up and over the whole final gorge.
The South Fork San Joaquin not playing nice.
Once
on top we decide to check if it is worth rappelling in, since we are so deep into the run anyways. It isn’t…more
sieves…
From
left to right, top to bottom,
Kevin Smith, Matt Thomas, Ben
Stookesberry and Darin McQuoid.
Below the gorge it's easy class II to the confluence, where the
Middle
Fork contributes
only a paltry amount of the flow. Before putting on we debated if five
to six hundred cfs would be enough for the Middle Fork, and to our
relief it is perfect.
Ben,
Kevin and I had done the Middle Fork earlier in the year, so we
make quick time down this section of river. It's much better at
medium flows than the high flows of spring. There are still the
typical big San Joaquin portages, and we feel immense relief as the lake comes into view.
In July the lake was full, yet we had to paddle
all the
way out due to
a surprising lack of motor boaters on the lake. We figure this time it's Labor Day weekend, so we're sure to get a ride out.
When
we reach the bath tub line it is apparent the lake is really
low, and we continue to portage and paddle for at least two more miles
before finally finding the lake.
Photo: Kevin Smith
Photo: Kevin Smith
It's Labor Day, why are there no fishermen on the
lake? Our mistake
becomes apparent as we paddle into the boat ramp, or lack thereof.
Mammoth Pool is so low that boats can’t launch.
Off the water logistics are still daunting, a
four hour
shuttle
followed by twelve hour drive back to Mt Shasta. Truly, this one
was a mission. Thanks to Kevin, Matt and Ben for rallying like true
pioneers.
In retrospect 500cfs was the perfect flow. Somehow
I
thought the run
would be 24 miles long and be possible in three days. Start to finish
it was 40 miles, a bit much to cover in three days on a first descent.
I’d imagine in the spring, flows would be low at the start,
and way too high at the confluence, mandating a strenuous hike out.
Will Southern California Edison ever willingly release water down the
South Fork San Joaquin? That is highly unlikely and we can only
hope a freak occurrence like this will happen again.
Thanks again to Paul Martzen for sharing flow
information
with the
kayaking community at large, and to Kurt Sable for notifying me about
the flows.